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A MARKETING BLOG IN ETHIOPIA


Baboons at the Gorge
June 23rd 2009
By Bill Nichols


You may recall from my June 15 posting that disagreement over the price of repairing my torn trousers (27 cents vs. 9 cents) caused a minor ruckus in Harrar. So, I brought the offending trousers back to Addis for repair. Our very able executive assistant, Yikanu, took them to her tailor near the office. He charged her big city prices: 9 cents. How do they make a living?

The rainy season is just now beginning, perhaps an hour of hard rain every other afternoon. I am told the frequency and length of downpours will increase. But at the moment, our reservoirs are at their lowest point and the few rains have so far not really raised the water level. Consequently, hydro-generation of electricity is at its weakest. We now have all day power outages every other day. One gets used to it and works around the inconvenience. In a few weeks the increasing rain should replenish the reservoirs and eliminate the need for power outages... until dry season again next year.

On Sunday I took a daytrip with a new friend, Lorenz, an Austrian/American working here in Addis. We hired a car and driver ($36 for the day) to take us two hours north of Addis to the Muger Gorge. This steep gorge plunges 2000 feet to the Muger River below. The Muger is a tributary of the Blue Nile, which meets the White Nile in Khartoum, Sudan. Together they form the Nile and flow northward through Egypt to empty into the Mediterranean. But enough geography.

We began our exploration on the rim of the gorge in the village of Durba where a very colorful Sunday market was taking place. Just a couple hundred yards from the market we observed an eye catching 300 foot high waterfall, and then nearby, a troupe of 25 or so Gelada Baboons ambling across an open field. They are also known as “bleeding heart” baboons due a chest of bare red skin sported by the male; no hair there on this otherwise hirsute animal. A quick glance might lead one to think the male’s heart is bleeding.

After a few photo shots we left the baboons and descended the switch back trail into the steep canyon. Soon we stopped on a rocky ledge (with a spectacular view across the gorge) to eat the sack lunches we had brought with us. Apparently the sight of two foreigners eating strange food overcame the reticence of several locals who were streaming down the trail from the market above to their homes on the canyon floor below. They stopped to stare. We had brought too much food for our lunch, so we offered the extra to the curious locals. They seemed intrigued by the exotic food we shared: apples, raisins, hummus, crackers. All purchased in a supermarket in Addis, but quite rare in this semi-isolated canyon.

They seemed to take a liking to our food... and to us as well. They invited us to hike to the bottom with them, so we set off with half a dozen of varying ages. An 11 year old girl was the only one who could speak some English, so she became our main contact. At one point she pointed at me and told 29 year old Lorenz, "The old man is clever." I was partially flattered.

At the bottom, one of our fellow traveler, a middle aged woman, invited us to her home for coffee, dinner, sleep the night, and breakfast. Quite an offer - - if correctly translated by the 11 year old. But we had a driver and car waiting back on top so we had to decline her generosity. The 2000 elevation rise, bottom to top, was a workout. Due to the extreme steepness of the rocky trail, our climb was like ascending stairs for one hour straight. We didn’t stop, but we did have to side step occasionally on the narrow switchback, whenever a string of charcoal laden donkeys bore down on us from the market above. Good climb, good agility training, no need to visit the gym that day.
 
 

Bills' Photo Diary


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Blog Archives


November 10th 2009

Bangladesh update - The Rickshaw Risk
The food here is pretty good. Sort of like the Indian food we find in restaurants in the States.
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November 4th 2009

Bangladesh update - The Crush of Humanity
I am in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, where I will spend two weeks evaluating the viability of a new renewable energy venture for a client.
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October 8th 2009

Culture Shock
I have successfully completed my final work assignment with the Solar Energy Foundation in Ethiopia and on Monday I returned to the US.
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September 22nd 2009

Let's Twist Again
In a very poor country it is important for companies to safeguard their assets.
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September 16th 2009

Happy Ethiopian New Year
One observes the run up to the Ethiopian New Year on September 11 (only coincidentally a date seared in Americans' minds) in the few days prior.
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September 9th 2009

Santa Has Arrived
The remaining cardinal direction from Addis that I had not visited was west.
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September 3rd 2009

Anticipating a Happy New Year
I have just begun my final tour with the Solar Energy Foundation in Ethiopia.
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July 13th 2009

Burnt Face
You may recall - - if you have been a regular reader of this space - - that SEF has a Solar Training Center in the town of Rema, to the north
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July 8th 2009

The Name Game
On Sunday my friend, Lorenz, and I hopped on a bus for the one hour ride east from Addis to the small town of Debre Zeit.
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July 4th 2009

Thirteen Months of Sunshine
The rainy season has arrived with a vengeance: torrential downpours nearly every day.
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July 1st 2009

No Girls Allowed
With perhaps the possible exception of Haile Selassie, Ethiopia's most famous historical figure is Lucy, the 3.5 million year old hominid.
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June 28th 2009

The Award Winning Solar Energy Foundation
The Solar Energy Foundation was recently selected as one of three Ashden prize winners.
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June 23rd 2009

Baboons at the Gorge
You may recall from my June 15 posting that disagreement over the price of repairing my torn trousers.
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June 19th, 2009

Dodging Steam Rollers
Observing road construction in Ethiopia is entertainment.
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June 15th, 2009

Ancient City of Harrar
The small city of Harrar lies 13 hours by bus east from Addis.
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June 11th, 2009

Beggars Belief
There are a lot of beggars in this very poor country.
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June 6th, 2009

The Rainy Season
With the rainy season fast approaching, it seemed time to spring for an umbrella
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June 3rd, 2009

Returning to Ethiopia
Yesterday morning I flew into Addis Ababa for the beginning of my second stint with the Solar Energy Foundation.
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May 18th, 2009

Tales of Ethiopia
I am back Newton now for a two week R&R.
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May 13th, 2009

Journey to Rema
On Saturday, seven of us loaded into two vehicles for the six hour journey north to Rema.
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May 11th, 2009

Trip to Chale
Worku and I went to Chale (Cha-lay), due east from Addis, on Friday...
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May 7th, 2009

Living in Ethiopia
I got my hair cut last Sunday – chose most expensive place in town, the Hilton Hotel.
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May 4th, 2009

Life in Addis Ababa
Some of you have asked about life in Addis Ababa. Here are a few highlights.
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May 1st, 2009

Report from Ethiopia
We left Addis Ababa at 6 AM on Wednesday, heading to the Southern Peoples State where we were to present our solar systems to farmers who live in unelectrified villages.
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April 24th, 2009

Arriving In Ethiopia
I arrived in Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, on Friday morning after a too long flight with too many layovers en route from Boston.
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