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A MARKETING BLOG IN ETHIOPIA


Bangladesh update - The Crush of Humanity
November 4th 2009
By Bill Nichols


I am in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, where I will spend two weeks evaluating the viability of a new renewable energy venture for a client. Bangladesh is nearly halfway around the globe from Boston so it took a long time to get here, 29 hours door to door. Really confuses the ol' body clock, but nothing like a good night sleep to get one back on track.

Bangladesh has a lot of people, 156 million, making it the seventh most populous nation on Earth. But it is relatively small, about the size of Iowa. Imagine taking every other person in America and jamming them into Iowa. If you did you would understand why Bangladesh is the globe's most densely populated country. (I have excluded tiny island nations like Singapore or other odd jobs like Monaco or the Vatican.) But as far as "normal" countries go, it's the most crowded. And when you factor in the water - - this country is basically a giant river delta where three massive rivers (Ganges, Brahmaputra, and Meghna) and countless smaller ones merge - - you don't have a lot of land left to crowd onto. There is barely room to move on the sidewalks.

Nor is there much room for the vehicles. Traffic is dense and ill mannered. Drivers weave in and out, just get a nose in front and you can cut off the guy next to you. Horns are always beeping, at night high beams flash an additional admonition to fellow drivers. Vehicles of all types constantly vie for position. Dilapidated buses, fume spewing trucks, beat up cars, overcrowded taxis, and golf-cart-like tuk tuks. But in addition there are several hundred thousand (yes, several hundred thousand) pedal powered rickshaws. These three wheelers are driven by a rickshaw wallah. At crowded intersections, hundreds of them cause traffic jams in their own right, even without the help of the other vehicles mentioned above. And a most colorful traffic jam at that. Every inch of available rickshaw surface - - sides, back, cover, seat - - has been decorated by the wallah with the gaudiest art imaginable. Because Islam has some kind of restriction on depicting living objects, most designs are bright geometric and curlicue shapes.

Traffic jams are a good opportunity for street vendors to peddle their wares. When everything moving grinds to a halt, the peddlers flood into the street, weaving between the jammed vehicles, thrusting their wares up to car windows in hopes that a passenger, in a moment of weakness, will purchase a bag of popcorn, sack of peanuts, bunch of flowers, bath towel , dried noodles, books, and more. One book vendor stood next to the passenger window of my immobile car and displayed his entire library of 30 books, one by one, even though I had waved him away before he had even started. Perhaps he thought I would eventually cave in and purchase. And like many in the third world who admire our new U.S. President, he saved the best for last, The Audacity of Hope. Even though I voted for the guy, I still didn't buy his book…to the chagrin of the relentless vendor. Still he wouldn't go away. Only the movement of traffic eventually freed me from the unwanted book presentation through my closed window.

The language is Bengali. 200 million speakers make Bengali the seventh most common native tongue on Earth. (The rankings for you linguaphiles: 1. Mandarin, 2. Hindi, 3. Spanish, 4. English, 5.Arabic, 6.Portuguese, 7.Bengali.) But very few of them speak English, despite Bangladesh being a former British Colony. And Bengali uses the Sanskrit alphabet which looks more like artwork than letters to me. At least I paid attention in yoga class when the instructor announced positions using the Sanskrit term. As a result, about the only thing I know how to say is down dog. The business people I come in contact with are well schooled in English, but I can't communicate much with the man in the street.

And it is mostly men in the street in this predominantly Muslim country (85% Muslim, 10% Hindu, 5% all other.) Even though Bangladesh follows a relatively secular strain of Islam, women tend to stay home. Those who do come out are dressed in a most colorful, but conservative, sari and cover their hair, but not their face with a shear scarf. Very, very few are veiled.

This is a poor country. Bangladesh ranks 196 in GDP/capita out of the 229 countries tracked by the CIA. (And no, I'm not in the CIA. I just looked up their easily accessible database. You can too.) Because of the poverty, there are beggars and very persistent ones at that; like the lady who stood beside my immobile vehicle (did I mention the traffic jams?) tapping non-stop and irritatingly on my window. That's when I realized the book vendor wasn't so bad after all.
 
 

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Blog Archives


November 10th 2009

Bangladesh update - The Rickshaw Risk
The food here is pretty good. Sort of like the Indian food we find in restaurants in the States.
Read More >>


November 4th 2009

Bangladesh update - The Crush of Humanity
I am in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, where I will spend two weeks evaluating the viability of a new renewable energy venture for a client.
Read More >>


October 8th 2009

Culture Shock
I have successfully completed my final work assignment with the Solar Energy Foundation in Ethiopia and on Monday I returned to the US.
Read More >>


September 22nd 2009

Let's Twist Again
In a very poor country it is important for companies to safeguard their assets.
Read More >>


September 16th 2009

Happy Ethiopian New Year
One observes the run up to the Ethiopian New Year on September 11 (only coincidentally a date seared in Americans' minds) in the few days prior.
Read More >>


September 9th 2009

Santa Has Arrived
The remaining cardinal direction from Addis that I had not visited was west.
Read More >>


September 3rd 2009

Anticipating a Happy New Year
I have just begun my final tour with the Solar Energy Foundation in Ethiopia.
Read More >>


July 13th 2009

Burnt Face
You may recall - - if you have been a regular reader of this space - - that SEF has a Solar Training Center in the town of Rema, to the north
Read More >>


July 8th 2009

The Name Game
On Sunday my friend, Lorenz, and I hopped on a bus for the one hour ride east from Addis to the small town of Debre Zeit.
Read More >>


July 4th 2009

Thirteen Months of Sunshine
The rainy season has arrived with a vengeance: torrential downpours nearly every day.
Read More >>


July 1st 2009

No Girls Allowed
With perhaps the possible exception of Haile Selassie, Ethiopia's most famous historical figure is Lucy, the 3.5 million year old hominid.
Read More >>


June 28th 2009

The Award Winning Solar Energy Foundation
The Solar Energy Foundation was recently selected as one of three Ashden prize winners.
Read More >>


June 23rd 2009

Baboons at the Gorge
You may recall from my June 15 posting that disagreement over the price of repairing my torn trousers.
Read More >>


June 19th, 2009

Dodging Steam Rollers
Observing road construction in Ethiopia is entertainment.
Read More >>


June 15th, 2009

Ancient City of Harrar
The small city of Harrar lies 13 hours by bus east from Addis.
Read More >>


June 11th, 2009

Beggars Belief
There are a lot of beggars in this very poor country.
Read More >>


June 6th, 2009

The Rainy Season
With the rainy season fast approaching, it seemed time to spring for an umbrella
Read More >>


June 3rd, 2009

Returning to Ethiopia
Yesterday morning I flew into Addis Ababa for the beginning of my second stint with the Solar Energy Foundation.
Read More >>


May 18th, 2009

Tales of Ethiopia
I am back Newton now for a two week R&R.
Read More >>


May 13th, 2009

Journey to Rema
On Saturday, seven of us loaded into two vehicles for the six hour journey north to Rema.
Read More >>


May 11th, 2009

Trip to Chale
Worku and I went to Chale (Cha-lay), due east from Addis, on Friday...
Read More >>


May 7th, 2009

Living in Ethiopia
I got my hair cut last Sunday – chose most expensive place in town, the Hilton Hotel.
Read More >>


May 4th, 2009

Life in Addis Ababa
Some of you have asked about life in Addis Ababa. Here are a few highlights.
Read More >>


May 1st, 2009

Report from Ethiopia
We left Addis Ababa at 6 AM on Wednesday, heading to the Southern Peoples State where we were to present our solar systems to farmers who live in unelectrified villages.
Read More >>


April 24th, 2009

Arriving In Ethiopia
I arrived in Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, on Friday morning after a too long flight with too many layovers en route from Boston.
Read More >>